The layers in Rang-e-Raqs
September 29, 2026 · SARAH TAREEN
Explore layered raw silk outfit design through Rang-e-Raqs, where an embroidered open robe sits over a sleeveless inner tunic and bell-cut pants in plum.
The opening of Rang-e-Raqs gives the first clear view of how its three pieces relate. A plum embroidered robe sits over a sleeveless inner tunic, leaving a narrow panel of the inner colour visible from the neckline down. Bell-cut pants continue beneath both. When I look at this layered raw silk outfit design, I begin with that opening because it separates the pieces without making them feel unrelated.
The robe has a deep open front and long sleeves. Its upper surface carries a repeated outlined pattern, while the embroidery becomes denser lower down. Two vertical decorated panels rise from the worked hem area towards the waist. They sit on either side of the opening, drawing attention to the inner tunic between them. In the full photograph, the inner is plain enough to remain distinct beside the closely worked robe.
I like the amount of the inner tunic that can be seen. It is present at the neckline and through the centre, yet the robe still occupies most of the front view. The meeting of those two shapes creates a long vertical line. The inner neckline sits lower than the robe's edge, so both shapes remain visible around the neck. A necklace covers part of the upper opening in the photograph, but the colour beneath it remains visible and helps explain the construction of the outfit.
The lower embroidery changes the weight of the robe. Palace arches and small floral forms sit within several horizontal bands, with a larger figure placed to one side. Above them, the repeated lattice has more open plum around each line. This distribution gives the upper and lower parts different densities. It also keeps the central opening legible, even where the surrounding surface contains considerable detail.
Seen from the side, the sleeveless inner extends below the robe's open edge. That view makes the layers easier to read than the front photograph alone. The robe hangs away from the inner at the chest, then comes closer to it near the embroidered lower section. A plain length of inner tunic remains visible behind the robe, separating the worked edge from the pants. I find myself watching the distance between those edges rather than treating the outer piece as a flat decorated front.
The sleeves add another plain area. Most of each sleeve is plum raw silk without the lattice that covers the robe's front panels. A narrow worked cuff appears at the wrist. This allows the embroidery on the body to stay concentrated where the robe overlaps the inner. In the side photograph, the unworked sleeve also gives the eye a resting place beside the denser figure and arch motifs.
The bell-cut pants complete the three-piece silhouette. They remain largely plain in the available photographs, so their shape is read through the line widening below the knee. The robe ends well above the trouser hem, leaving enough length visible to understand that change. I would keep the description of the pants precise: the product record names a bell cut, while the photographs show its outline from a limited number of angles.
Rang-e-Raqs belongs to Ishq-e-Khaas, a collection made in pure raw silk with adda work. The product record identifies salma and dabka among the materials, together with moti, cut dana, resham and tilla. Those details sit within the embroidery rather than changing the number of layers. The construction remains easy to describe once the garment is seen in full.
The product story connects the embroidery to Anarkali and describes a figure in motion. In the close photograph, the figure is surrounded by small architectural compartments and bands of flowers. I can recognise the intended sense of movement in the angled body and radiating lines, although a photograph cannot confirm how every worked element is formed. For this journal note, the useful point is its position on the outermost layer, where it can be seen without covering the inner tunic.
Returning to the full view, I notice how each piece is given a different task. The inner provides an uninterrupted centre, the robe carries the embroidery, and the pants extend the plum line to the floor. Their proportions can be understood before the smaller details are examined. That order matters to me. The layers make room for the handwork while preserving the outline of every separate piece.
Explore
Ishq-e-Khaas
Pure raw silk, hand embroidery and silhouettes made to hold a story.
VIEW THE COLLECTION →